Showing posts with label rougui. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rougui. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

2006 Rougui Oolong Roasting Experiment

Back in 2006 I purchased a few pounds of Rougui oolong (肉桂烏龍) from Josh at J-Tea. This tea was made either in Taiwan, or mainland China under Taiwanese management (Josh was not certain which). The dry leaves are rolled into a ball shape instead of the long, twisted shape of many Rougui teas. I've always really loved this tea's toasty cinnamon notes and pleasant substantial mouth-feel.

In the years since, I have sold, traded, gifted and imbibed about half my stash. The remaining ~17 ounces have been resting in a plastic bag inside of an old competition Wenshan Baozhong tin in a forgotten corner of my tea cabinet.

I opened the bag on the evening of 12-4-2011 to smell it for the first time in years. The smell is nice, a tiny bit musty and sweet. I let the leaf air out for a couple hours and made a plan to roast half of it the following day.



On 12/5/2011 at 9:30 AM I used my electric stove to bake ~8 ounces of this tea in an aluminum pie pan. I let it go for one hour at 200° F. The leaf was about 3/4 inch deep and was not stirred.

Towards the end of the hour a sweet cinnamon granola aroma started to emerge from my stove. After baking I allowed the leaf to cool completely and put it in a new plastic bag to wait until the following morning.

After First Roast


On 12/6/2011 at 7:30 AM I stirred the leaves and baked them again, this time at 215° F. I gently stirred them every 15 minutes for 2 hours. I choose these parameters based loosely on the recommendations of several tea people I emailed for advice.

Finished Roasting - 9:30 AM on 12/6/2011


After the leaves had mostly cooled, ~10 minutes later, I set up a cupping of the unbaked and the baked leaves. I used 5 grams of tea in two identical glass cups with 6 ounces boiling water.

Unbaked on left; baked on Right.


The two teas were quite different but I didn't prefer one over the other. The unbaked tea was unsurprisingly brighter and greener with more cinnamon notes on the tongue. It still tasted roasty to me and had a slightly sour taste that hinted at grapefruit and clove. The baked tea was mellow and toasty. I was happy that it didn't taste burnt or smoky but I felt that it lost some complexity going sip for sip with the unbaked tea. The baked tea was smoother and more warming with muted cinnamon and whole wheat bread crust notes.

Both teas are great and I feel lucky that I didn't ruin the baked tea. Now that I've finished the experiment I do not feel like the tea really needed to be roasted again at this time. Perhaps the careful airtight storage at my house and the original roast back in 2006 made this experiment redundant. I think I will cup these two together again in a few months to see how they're coming along.

Friday, September 9, 2011

Anxi Rougui Oolong

Today I'm reviewing an interesting oolong called Anxi Rougui. Anxi is the name of a county (famous for Tie Guanyin / 鐵觀音) in China's Fujian province. Rougui (肉桂), which means cinnamon, is a tea plant cultivar. My business, Phoenix Tea, is the primary American source for this tea.

I've had several wonderful experiences with Rougui oolong from the Wuyi mountains. Those teas were all darker and more heavily roasted teas with long twisted leaves. This tea, on the other hand, looks like a greener Tie Guanyin.



Despite its greenish color, the dry leaf smells rich and roasty with a promising hint of cinnamon aroma.

The brewed liquor is also a bit darker than I would have guessed and very sweet smelling. It reminds me of when I make granola and the whole house smells amazing all day.



The flavor is satisfying and toasty. At first it struck me as a somewhat savory, herbaceous Tie Guanyin-like tea. It lacks slightly for body but it makes up for it with great complexity. The strong cinnamon-like notes don't hit me right away, but instead they wait until I've taken a breath after each sip. At that point there is a distinct icy-hot cinnamon sensation in the very back of my mouth and tongue.



I'm really enjoying this tea and look forward to drinking it more often in the Autumn.

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Floating Leaves' Taiwan Wuyi

Floating Leaves Tea Shop here in Seattle is one of my favorite places to buy tea. I frequently visit this small tea shop with my daughter while my wife is at work. We enjoy drinking some great tea and practicing our Mandarin with the owner, my good friend Shiuwen from Taiwan. She has some great connections and imports many wonderful oolong teas every season!

Last week I was inspired by Shiuwen's latest blog post about tea leaf cultivars commonly used in Taiwan. Click here to check it out. In that post she mentioned a Wuyi (武夷) style tea being grown in Taiwan. I am not clear if it is a specific Wuyi cultivar but I was very intrigued and decided to buy a couple ounces to taste at home.

Ready for some tea:


The Wuyi Mountains of Fujian province China have many famous heirloom tea plant cultivars. Although my personal experience with this region's tea is quite limited, I have tasted some lovely teas made from the Rougui (肉桂) (cinnamon), Shui Xian (水仙) (water fairy or narcissus), and Da Hong Pao (大紅袍) (big red robe) tea bushes. These teas often have long twisted leaves and a rich brown tea soup due to more oxidation and bake. They are also suitable for careful aging.

This morning I enjoyed the Floating Leaves "Taiwan Wuyi" using my small gaiwan about 60% full of dry leaf. These twisted leaves are very long and elegant. Many leaves are 2 to 3 inches long. They have subtle aroma that remind me of sweet red wine and raisins. I used boiling water and steeped the leaf seven times.

The tea soup:


This tea was lighter in color than I expected, most cups had a soft yellow color that just hinted at brown. The bottom of the gaiwan lid presented the brightest aroma, a little grassy but clean and nutty too. Each cup had medium body and various degree of roast. The taste was always smooth and roasty. It is a very tasty oolong tea.

In the end:

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Chinese Tea Appreciation Festival 2007

On December 2, 2007 I hosted a Chinese Tea Festival in Seattle! The weather, which was cold and rainy, was perfect for the meditative afternoon spent tasting teas. The tea festival was held at ArtXchange, a downtown gallery showcasing inspiring art by artists from all over the world. The corresponding art exhibition was David Cole's "Unexpected Arrivals." It was amazing and really enhanced the tea drinking atmosphere. The highlight of the festival was the sublime music provided by guqin (古琴) expert Professor Wu Ziying (吳自英). He played a half-hour set of beautifully serene music on his 2000-year-old instrument. The tea festival was masterfully catered by my wife Alanna. The all-vegan spread included lychee-coconut cupcakes, basil-cucumber tea sandwiches, almond cookies and miscellaneous fruits and candies.

The 3 teas served were: 2007 Spring Jin Xuen Oolong, 1999 Aged Rougui Oolong, and 1986 Aged Xia Guan Factory Green Puerh Tuo-cha. Below you will find descriptions of these teas.

*2007 Spring Jin Xuen (2007 春金萱):
Jin Xuen, meaning golden lily, is a modern tea varietal developed in Taiwan in the early 1980's. The varietal is known to produce a very smooth, sweet, oolong tea with a buttery and flowery aroma. Also, Jin Xuen grows well and generally has a high output. Usually I do not get too excited about Jin Xuen oolong; while the aroma is consistently great, the broth can often lack character. That is certainly not the case with this stand-out tea. This tea was produced in Fujian, China by the great folks at the City and Country Fine Tea Company. It was imported and stored in Bellevue by a trusted tea mentor named Mr. Chen. Mr. Chen gave me two tips that have greatly improved my results while brewing this tea: Use water at only 180 degrees and leave the lid off of the gaiwan or pot between infusions. Obviously these unorthodox tips won't work for most oolongs, but you should try it with this Jin Xuen. Its warming, floral bouquet may make you forget about the cold winter weather!

**1999 Aged Rougui (1999 老肉桂):
Rougui, meaning cinnamon, is one of several famous oolong varietals from China's Wuyi mountains. This tea was made in 1999 and has long, dark, twisted leaves which are characteristic of most Wuyi oolongs. The tea soup is really smooth with a satisfyingly thick, clear broth. There is a subtle aged flavor that I'd describe as "ripe peach in a used bookstore." The careful aging on this tea pays off with an ambrosial flavor that seems to have a relaxing effect on the body.

***1986 Xia Guan Tuo-cha Pu-erh (1986 下关沱普洱):
While visiting the warehouse of the previously mentioned Mr. Chen, I was invited to see his special "pu-erh storage room." Wow! I was blown away by his collection of fragrant pu-erhs. In particular he had several stacks of beautiful Xia Guan tuo-cha. He told me that he has been personally storing these tuo-chas for 15 years and he believes that they were already 6 years old when he bought them. As I type this blog I am rembering this tea, brewed in a gaiwan with short, hot steeps. Each cup is amazing. I'd say it's one of the best tasting pu-erh teas I've ever had. The color is clear and reddish orange and the broth is sweet, brisk and complex. Flavor notes for me would include clove, cedar, and sherry.

Delicious Little Treats:


Serving tea for guests:


Prof. Wu plays the Guqin: