Showing posts with label hotsprings. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hotsprings. Show all posts

Sunday, July 25, 2010

A Message from the Guguan Tourism Board

Guguan (谷關) is a hotspring (溫泉) resort village located in Taichung county, Taiwan (台中縣, 台灣). Every year, this peaceful little town attracts thousands of hotspring-loving tourists from all over the world. But even with all of those visitors, you can still find some pretty posh places to soak your bones without spending a lot of money. In the last five years, I have enjoyed two very relaxing overnight visits to Guguan, and each time I've only spent about US $50 (including all meals and lodging).


The town clings to two sides of a deep ravine that have been stitched together by a few rad suspension bridges. Resort hotels are all over the place. Don't stay at them unless you have a few hundred dollars budgeted... but do hit them up for a good soak. Some resorts, like the Four Seasons Spa Hotel, will open their pools to non-guests for around $10 to $20 depending on the time of year. But if that's still too steep... you can also find some wonderful pools in the $5 range.

I really love the Chinese verb "pao" (泡) meaning "to steep" (as in tea leaves). It is the same word used for soaking one's self in a hotspring. So if you would like to have a dip, just say "wǒ yào pào wēnquán (我要泡溫泉)." Which means: "I would like to steep myself in the hotspring."

Here is one of several pools in which I've soaked:

The tea scene in Guguan is decent... there are a few little cafes that serve good tea, fresh juice and snacks to the health-conscious visitors. But the best tea in Guguan can be for found for free in the parks and pagodas. If you see some folks sitting in the shade and relaxing with a portable stove and teapot go right up to them and say "nihao" (你好). Tea lovers from any culture love to meet one another, so ask them what type of tea they are drinking and if you can taste a little bit. Chances are they will share a little and you'll spend all afternoon sipping oolong and chatting.


The trails around town are very beautiful and offer some short, rewarding hikes. As you power your way up a flight of stairs to the next scenic look-out you may hear some other hikers yell "jia you" (加油) as they huff and puff. This literally means "add oil" but is often translated as "step on the gas" or "make more of an effort."

Strolling along the Shaolai footpath (捎來步道).

In addition to the many beautiful hotsprings and hiking trails around Guguan, the travel map that I picked up for free in the hotspring museum (also free) stated the following: "There are other natural wonders in the Guguan Scenic Area as well--a thousand year old sacred Chinese white pine tree and a Pig of Destiny."

I've got to go back and find that Pig!

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Shu Shu's Odyssey - Part 1

One day, while reading a dusty old book that he had found buried beneath a long-forgotten stack of nautical tomes, Shu Shu T. Dragon (my little buddy, who as you may recall is an extremely avid reader) came across an ancient map detailing the location of a mysterious island. The book (which was actually the diary of a grizzled old sea captain by the name of Jones) described the island as an enchanted place located somewhere in the South Pacific. Captain Jones and his crew had found it entirely by accident after a terrible storm had damaged their ship and blew them far off course. After drifting for ten days, the bedraggled crew saw the island appear on the horizon like a beautiful beacon of hope.

"I just love these nautical tomes."

According to his diary, Captain Jones and his crew spent nearly two years on the island, which they explored and mapped while repairing their ship. During this time, he chronicled the island's many wondrous features such as its beautiful mountains, pristine beaches, colorful birds, and abundance of tropical fruit. One of the island's most curious inhabitants were, as described by the Captain, "...a race of small brown creatures, close in size to a field mouse and slightly resembling a mythical dragon." He goes on to write of their "pleasant demeanor" and "tough, rocky bodies resembling hardened clay." At one point in his diary the Captain wrote, "...one of their most unusual habits is a daily hike to the island's highest peak. Their final destination is a natural hot spring with crystal-clear water that smells as though it has been infused with jasmine flowers. They will spend hours soaking in this fragrant bath..."

Upon reading this, Shu Shu's mouth dropped open. He knew he must find this fantastic island. Perhaps he would even find a society of other tea dragons and thus unlock the mystery of his very existence... but mostly he just wanted to soak in that hot spring.

And so it was that Shu Shu T. Dragon set out on a most epic journey. He packed the book in a small rucksack and borrowed our friend's pedal-powered, zero-emissions hot air balloon! The following three paragraphs were taken directly from Shu Shu's journal and the remainder of the story he shared with me after his returned to Seattle.

June 28, 2009
After 3 days of nonstop flight I have arrived at Fiji. The Captain's peculiar map has precise instructions which I now must follow if I wish to find the island. "Starting at Fiji's southernmost point, travel south for 2 days at the speed of a tuna in his prime. Turn gracefully toward the east as though you were a sooty tern. Spend the next 3 days traveling east by southeast, using the stars for guidance, and at dawn on the third day, if you're lucky, the island will appear on the horizon."

July 4, 2009
I have found the island! It is a very beautiful place indeed, much as Captain Jones had described it, but it is oddly quiet and devoid of life. Although the island seems rich with exotic foliage, I do not see a single bird in the sky nor spider in a tree. I called out often but received no response. After a brief rest, I will begin to explore the island. I sure hope I can find the hot spring that Captain Jones wrote about in his diary!

"Cool rocks."

"Beautiful white sand beaches."


"Lush green forests."


July 5, 2009
I have spent the better part of today flying around and mapping the island. At about 4 miles wide and 6 miles long, it is quite small. There is a tall green mountain near its center and after searching for several hours I believe I've found a meadow where I can safely land my balloon and camp for the night.

(Written after Shu Shu's recent return to Seattle.)
The mountain seemed cold and foreboding, not at all the pleasant place described by the Captain. Shadows seem to move in unnatural ways and my sleep was burdened with nightmares.

Because the terrain was getting rocky and the wind erratic, I was not able to take the balloon any further, and continued on foot. I was on a trail leading off into the dark forest. Judging by its lack of vines and debris, I thought it must have been used frequently. I hiked the trail all morning as the tropical sun burned down on my scaly brown back. By mid-afternoon I seemed to be nearing the summit and decided to take a short rest by a small stream. While bending down to splash a little water on my parched body, everything went black. A dark bag had been put over my head and I was being wrestled to the ground by several strong men. I felt a blow to the back of my head and blacked out.

I awoke in a dark cave with my hands and feet bound by thick ropes. Soft voices could be heard from somewhere nearby. I yelled and the voices stopped. Moments later an old man approached me. His dirty face was lit by a blazing torch. He wore a loincloth tied together from worn-out clothing and had a long, grey beard.

"Mew Mew Muh Muh," the man barked at me in a questioning manner.

"Huh? My name is Shu Shu and I'm from Seattle," I replied.

"You speak English?" asked the man in a surprised British-sounding voice.

"Yeah! What the heck were you speaking?"

"Mews. It is the language of your race. Don't you speak it too?" asked the man.

"Look man, there has been some sort of mix-up. I have no clue what you're talking about. My name is Shu Shu T. Dragon and I'm a 5000-year-old Chinese tea dragon who recently moved to America to read books and have hot tea poured on my head. I came to this island a few days ago because I read about in a dude named Captain Jones' diary. I come in peace!!!"

The old man signaled to several similar looking men standing in the darkness behind him. They stepped forward, some carrying large sticks, one with a knife. The man with the knife started walking menacingly toward me... but luckily he just cut me free of the ropes!

"I'm sorry, Shu Shu," began the man. "My name is Ben Jones. Captain Jones was my father. He died many years ago when I was just 18. Before he passed he often told me stories of this enchanted isle. Did you know that he returned twice more since his first visit? It's all in his book."

"Actually... I haven't finished reading his book yet." I replied sheepishly. "Once I got to the part about the hot spring and the little creatures that looked like me, I got all excited and set out immediately."

"I see," replied Ben. "You are missing most of the story. Follow me and I will explain."

Ben and I walked slowly out of the dark cave and into a beautiful garden. As we walked, he explained to me that I was a "Mew," an ancient race of tiny stone dragons that had lived on this island since it was formed.

"Over the years, your race had created a peaceful and productive society, and they even sent several peace missions to different parts of the world," he said. "Also, the Mew can live forever as long as they bathe often in hot fragrant water or unless they meet some other untimely end."

"Whoa," I replied. "No wonder I love my tea showers so much!"

"My father didn't know any of this at first," continued Ben. "On his third and final visit, he managed to learn the language of the Mew and began to fully understand them. According to my father, the Mew liked him very much and they also liked my mother Marie, who accompanied him on that final voyage. They had planned to stay here for the rest of their lives, eating simple foods and soaking daily in the purifying waters of..."

At this point we stood before the thick hanging branches of a large banyan tree. Ben brushed them aside and we stepped forward revealing a rocky pool of brackish warm water fed by a pitiful waterfall.

"What happened?" I exclaimed. "Is this the legendary hot spring that I've been searching for?!"

"Unfortunately, yes," replied Ben in a sad voice. "It has been cursed."

"Cursed... but how could that happen?" I said with disbelief.

"During my father's final stay on the island, he met an ill-tempered Mew by the name of Wuhh. Wuhh was a witch doctor who spent a lot of time alone in a hut on the far side of the island. He was known for experimenting with different herbs and potions and for hating outsiders. He treated my parents terribly, but because all the other Mew were so nice to my parents it was never really a big problem. A few years later I was born and Wuhh started spreading rumors about how we had come to take over their island and destroy their way of life.

"When I was two years old I became very sick. My father accused Wuhh of poisoning me. Wuhh claimed he was innocent and used my father's allegations as further proof that we were trouble. My father, who was convinced that Wuhh was lying, grabbed him and stuck him in a cage in our house. He told Wuhh that he would not let him bathe in the spring until he confessed... but Wuhh would not confess. After a few days his rocky skin started to dry out and he began to wither and die. No Mew had ever lasted more than a week without hot fragrant water."

"That's rough!" I interjected. "I can't imagine going even two days without a tea shower!"

Ben continued his story. "My father and several Mew leaders searched Wuhh's hut for evidence. His house was filled with old bones, blackened iron pots and peculiar fauna of all types. Among all this, they found an ancient trunk sealed with a black lock. They busted it open to reveal three small vials of different colored liquids, an old book and a glowing red stone in the shape of an egg. The book was filled with recipes for poisons and dark magic. They seized the possible evidence and began walking back to confront Wuhh. When they returned, the cage was empty with its small door left open. They made a frantic search in and around the house, but Wuhh was nowhere to be found.

"Over the next few days my father looked everywhere and a team of Mew police kept constant guard over the hot spring. It was my mother who finally cracked the case. She had been studying Wuhh's evil book while my father was out searching the island. She discovered recipes in the book with descriptions that perfectly matched the aromas and colors of the three liquids my father had seized. One was a vile poison that would slowly suck the life out of any human who tasted it. One had the ability to turn its creator invisible, and the last potion would allow any Mew who drank it to survive for months without a hot fragrant bath! Naturally my parents were scared. An invisible murderer could be anywhere, and my condition was getting worse and worse.

"A trusted Mew friend of my father's recommended that they perform an ancient healing ritual. They placed me in the hot spring with a handful of wild Camellia leaves and chanted a prayer of renewal. The poison in my blood was strong but it was no match for the curative spring. After a week of this treatment I had regained my health but for my safety my parents decided to move back to England.

"I grew up hearing this tale and learning Mews from my father. He never returned to the island and never knew what happened to Wuhh. He always felt regret about leaving while Wuhh was on the loose, but he told himself it had to be done for the safety of his family. When he died, I decided it was my fate to return to this island. I learned to sail and became a Captain. Using my fathers diary, I found the island but sadly it was as it is now. A cursed place filled with ghosts! During our first night here, our ship caught fire. A week later, while exploring the west side of the mountain, 10 of my crew were buried in a landslide. Those five men waiting in the garden are the last of my crew. We have now lived here for 50 years trying to solve the mystery of what happened to all the Mew and the hotspring. So far we have learned very little and our dreams are plagued with nightmares."

"Oh man!" I said. "This is terrible. I have a pedal-powered hot air balloon but it can only carry two men. I will return to Seattle and find a way to rescue you."

"Thank you, Shu Shu, but we do not want to be rescued. We are too old now. This island is the only life we know. We work hard everyday to keep the hot spring as clean as possible. It seems to help a little."

"Then I will return as soon as I can!" I exclaimed. "I will bring my friend Brett and we will help you to save this island!"

"Brett and I will solve the case!"


"Hello Starfish!"


to be continued...

Thursday, January 22, 2009

My Tiansiang Story - 我的天祥故事

January 20, 2005 was a very slow day for tourism when I made my way from Hualian (花蓮), a coastal city in eastern Taiwan, to Tiansiang (天祥), a small village located in the scenic Taroko Gorge National Park (太魯閣國家公園). While waiting for my bus at the sleepy bus station, I chatted briefly with a French Canadian fellow who was making his way to a teaching job in a nearby village. I also made small talk with three different taxi drivers who desperately wanted to drive me up to Tiansiang for 3 times the price of the bus. It would have been a good deal if I was traveling with one or two friends but because I was solo I choose to wait an hour for the next bus.

My bus ride up into the mountains was itself a thrilling experience. The highway is cut into the rocky gorge with many sharp turns. I was amazed at the driver's ability to keep this massive bus from falling into the gorge, especially with all of the cars and scooters speeding along the narrow highway!

Arriving at Tiansiang:


Tiansiang is located where two rivers come together. In the main part of town there is a Buddhist monastery, a resort hotel, and a few small restaurants and gift shops. I walked a short distance along the river and up a small hill to the Catholic hostel and made arrangements to stay in the "dorms."

The dorm room at the Catholic Hostel:


People come to Taroko Gorge for the fresh air, beautiful scenery, awesome hiking trails and spectacular hotsprings. In particular Wenshan Hotspring (文山溫泉) which is about 2 kilometers further down the highway. After I had stowed my backpack, grabbed my swimsuit and changed into some hiking clothes, I headed out to find the hotspring.

Along the way I met two very cool Swedish travelers named Mats and Ann. We chatted briefly about the beautiful scenery before continuing on our individual hikes. Coincidentally I met up with the same couple in Alishan three days later. In Alishan we became good friends and they even visited me in Seattle a couple years ago.

Further along the trail I came across a new trail that started with a long dark tunnel that went deep into a mountain. It was such a long and intriguing tunnel that I decided to make a detour and find out what was on the other end. In the middle of the tunnel it was pitch black; only a faint dot of light could be seen at the far end. Several other hikers were also in the tunnel and we called out echos for fun. It took about 15 minutes to walk through the tunnel. At the other side there was a mountain vista and several trailheads for more advanced mountain trails. I choose to go back to my old route and continue my trek to the Wenshan Hotspring. A Korean tourist, who spoke good English, waited for me. We chatted as we walked back though the tunnel. At one point he said "I didn't want to be in this tunnel alone."

Half way though the tunnel (taken with flash):


Because it was now mid afternoon and I had lost an hour with my tunnel detour, I decided to hitch the remaining 1.5 kilometers to the hotspring. The first car stopped for me. It was two college girls on a camping trip. They were pleasant company and dropped me off right at the entrance trail leading down to the hotspring.

The Wenshan Hotspring is a very special place. First you hike down to a wooden changing station with bathrooms, then you hike further down into the gorge along beautiful old stairs.
The hotspring itself consists of a hot pool, a warm pool, and a "cool pool" formed where the spring water mingles with the river. I spent the rest of the day enjoying the relaxing water and chatting with the other folks who had made their way to this heavenly place. I even received a lift back to Tiansiang from a very nice family!

Looking down at the hotspring from a bridge:


Looking back up at the same bridge:


Back in town I enjoyed a simple and inexpensive dinner of fried rice, wild mountain greens and soup, then I headed back to the hostel to relax with some delicious Shanlinxi high mountain oolong that I had purchased earlier in my travels. I brewed the tea using several Western-style mugs that I found in the hostel's main room. The proprietress of the hostel was making a basket out of candy wrappers and watching a "kung fu soap opera." I offered her tea several times but she politely declined. On the bookshelf of the main room there were many Catholic books in Chinese and several crucifixes. Also, there was a soda bottle full of giant, scary bugs! Which I thought was weird and cool. A little while later another American came in to hang out. It turns out that she and I were the only guests at the hostel that evening. She was a teacher from Vermont who was also traveling in Taiwan for the first time. We became friends while we chatted about Taiwan, traveling, and tea. She was excited to drink fresh Taiwanese tea (her first) and to learn a little bit about it.

The Bug Bottle:



I loved my time in Tiansiang and can't wait to go back to this beautiful place!